Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is located 112km north of Puerto Natales. The park’s famous centerpiece is the Paine Massif, a small mountain system completely independent from the Patagonian Andes Range. There are magnificent views to be had throughout the park including turquoise lakes, glaciers, icebergs, the towers of Paine and the horns of Paine. The sights are dramatic and ever-changing. One minute it’s sunny and brilliant, and the next it’s overcast and ominous. It snowed the morning of our visit to the park and for much of the day the sky was grey and draped in a heavy layer of clouds and fog, making it impossible to view the classic Torres del Paine panoramas.
The streets of Puerto Natales are lined with brightly painted, corrugated-tin houses. A small fishing port on Seno Ultima Esperanza, the town serves as the jumping off point for travelers headed to Torres del Paine national park.
Chile/Argentina border crossing at Libertadores
After departing Valparaíso we traveled eight hours by bus across the border to Mendoza, Argentina. The first of several planned crossings between the two countries, border formalities were simple and straightforward and the scenery along the way was spectacular.
Published October 29, 2009
Tags: unesco, Valparaíso, Viña del Mar
A few days in Santiago began to eat into our budget so we packed up and headed 120km northwest of the city to Valparaíso. A Unesco World Heritage Site and the cultural capital of Chile, Valparaíso is beautiful from a distance. An old port city built on the edge of the water with hills of brightly painted houses running right into the ocean. Up close the city is slightly less attractive with tangled wires, debris and a congested center detracting from it’s charm. Valparaíso has fifteen funiculars, or wooden elevators, that connect the residential hills to the lower downtown area. Built between 1883-1914 they are still in use today. Graffiti is everywhere, some of it very impressive. Our second day in Valparaíso we walked 9km along the coast to the beach resort of Viña del Mar. A popular summer and weekend destination for Santiago residents, Viña del Mar’s palm-fringed boulevards, manicured gardens, grand mansions and high-rise buildings contrast sharply with neighboring Valparaíso.
Published October 22, 2009
Tags: donde Augusto, Santiago de Chile
The world famous seafood restaurant, donde Augusto, is located in Santiago’s Mercado Central. We stopped by for lunch our second day in town and discovered that the NY Times and New Yorker magazine weren’t mistaken. Friendly owners and a couteous staff serving excellent seafood in the center of the fresh fish market, this restaurant is not to be missed.
Published October 22, 2009
Tags: Santiago de Chile
If our last bus ride in Bolivia was our worst then surely the bus ride from San Pedro de Atacama in the North of Chile to Santiago was our best. Chile has only a few long distance bus companies and they are all fairly similar in price and quality. We choose Tur Bus for the 23 hour ride to Chile’s capital city. It was as if we were traveling by plane. Our bus had fully reclining seats, movies and an attendant on board to assist passengers throughout the trip. An electric screen in the front of the bus continuously showed the speed that the bus was traveling and the amount of time that the current driver had been behind the wheel. We were served meals on board, there were clean bathrooms and the attendant even came around as we were beginning to fall asleep to cover us with blankets and close the curtains.
Arriving in Santiago it was hard not to wonder if the bus somehow transported us from South America to Europe while we slept. Clean, orderly and safe, Santiago de Chile defies the stereotypical South American image. It’s the first city we’ve visited since Mexico’s capital to have a modern underground subway system as well as an above ground transportation system that is equally organized and efficient. A large metropolis set against towering snow-capped Andean peaks, it’s surely one of the least intimidating of all South American capitals. Pedestrian thoroughfares throughout the center, wide sidewalks and courteous drivers make exploring the city’s many neighborhoods easy and enjoyable. In fact, Santiago is the first place we’ve visited since leaving Philadelphia where pedestrians have the right of way.
From polished suburbs to trendy barrios and a lively downtown area, the city defies pinning down. Outdoor cafés, open-air art markets and clever street performers add to its charm. Santiago is a major financial center for the continent and several large multinationals are headquartered in the city’s business district. Just beyond the business district the neighborhoods of Providencia and Las Condes are home to wealthy suburbs boasting gorgeous apartment buildings, high-end shops and fancy restaurants and cafés. Parks and wide open green spaces throughout the city provide ample opportunity for leisurely strolls and relaxation. Santiago de Chile was founded in 1541 and the neoclassical architecture that defines many of its worn buildings is quite impressive. The city’s central station was designed by Gustave Eiffel.
We arrived in Uyuni after one of our worst bus rides yet and thankfully we knew it would be our last in the country. Of all the countries we’ve visited, bus travel in Bolivia has been the most unpleasant. The majority of the roads in Bolivia, including those connecting major cities, are unpaved, rocky and dusty as was the case with the road connecting Potosí and Uyuni. After being bounced aroundfor almost eight hours in a stuffy, smelly and overcrowded bus with no bathrooms, clouds of dust pouring in through the open windows and a very drunk man repeatedly passing out on Carlos’ shoulder we finally made it. We decided we would visit the Salar de Uyuni and Bolivia’s southwest region en route to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile on one of the popular three day/ two night jeep tours. With various tour agencies in Uyuni offering similar tours to the Salares we had originally planned to spend our first day in town comparing agencies and prices. We were barely off the bus when we were surrounded by people offering tours and hostal deals and one woman in particular caught our attention. She was looking to fill two remaining spots on a tour that was leaving the following morning and offered us free accommodation that first night in Uyuni and free transfer to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile if we signed on, it sounded good so we did.
The Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest salt flat. At an altitude of 3653m and covering 12,000 sq km, it was once part of a prehistoric salt lake, Lago Minchín, which covered most of southwest Bolivia. Today, a tour of the Salar and its surrounds is a surreal experience with visits to salt plains, hot springs, geysers, colored lagoons and volcanoes. The ‘climatically challenged’ landscape is incredible and isolated with just a few small towns scattered across the region. Heading south of the Salar through the far southwest of Bolivia toward the Chilean border the landscape is nearly treeless with gentle hills, volcanoes and lagoons that are home to three types of flamingos. Located within the national reserve, Laguna Colorada is a bright, adobe-red lake fringed with white minerals and backed by mountains. Also within the limits of the reserve is a 4950m high geyser basin. Tucked into Bolivia’s southwest corner just across the border from Chile is Laguna Verde, a stunning aquamarine lake. Looming over the lake at 5930m is Volcán Licancabur.
Fortunately, our tour turned out to be amazing and the sights we visited are surely some of the most impressive natural wonders I’ve ever seen. Our guide, Lucio, was professional and took us everywhere we were promised we would go, the vehicle was in good condition, our food and accommodations were acceptable and everything was included in the price of the tour. But what made our tour really special was the people traveling with us. Aside from the two of us our group of six included Ivonna and Humbert from Poland and Angela and Johnny from Colombia. We were all around the same age, spoke English and got along immediately. Quite a relief since throughout the duration of the tour we were together constantly, even sharing the same dorm room while we slept. After the tour ended we traveled together across the border to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and when it finally came time to part ways it was like saying farewell to old friends.